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Pricing & Service Details

We serve Tracy and Mountain House, and nowhere else. Keeping to those two towns is what lets us hold tight routes and get to you quickly when something needs attention.

If your address comes up as Banta or shows the 95304 ZIP code, you are almost certainly still in our area — that ZIP covers the ground between the two towns. Send us the address and we will confirm it.

If you are outside Tracy and Mountain House, we are not able to take you on, and we would rather tell you that up front than waste your time.

Simply contact us for a free estimate. We can schedule a quick walk-through or provide a quote based on your address and yard size. We make the process simple and hassle-free.

Pricing is based on lawn size, mowing frequency, and any additional services needed (like fertilization or trimming). We offer fair, transparent pricing and provide quotes for free.

The time spent mowing your lawn is only one part of the cost of providing professional lawn service. Each visit also includes travel time, loading and transporting equipment, fuel, commercial equipment and maintenance, insurance, licensing, scheduling, billing, and other business expenses.

Professional equipment also allows the work to be completed much more efficiently than it might be with typical homeowner equipment. A lawn that can be professionally mowed, edged, and cleaned up relatively quickly may be the result of years of experience and the use of equipment designed for this type of work.

Our pricing is based on the overall service required for your property rather than simply the number of minutes spent at your home.

With bi-weekly service, the lawn has twice as much time to grow between visits. This usually means taller and heavier grass, more edging growth, additional clippings, and more time and effort needed to leave the property looking neat.

The heavier growth also puts more strain on mowing and edging equipment. Taller, thicker grass requires the equipment to work harder and can increase fuel or battery use, blade wear, and overall equipment maintenance compared with regularly maintained weekly lawns.

Weekly mowing allows us to maintain the lawn more efficiently and remove less growth during each visit. It is also generally better for actively growing grass because it makes it easier to follow the one-third rule, which recommends removing no more than one-third of the grass blade at a time.

For these reasons, bi-weekly service is priced slightly higher per visit than weekly service. However, the overall monthly cost is generally lower because there are fewer service visits.

Billing is handled through autopay. After we have met at your property and agreed on the plan, we email you a secure link so you can store a debit or credit card yourself. We never collect card details on our website, over the phone, or in person — that link is the only way a card is added.

Your card is not charged until the work has been done, and you receive a paid invoice by email each time a payment goes through. Nothing is charged before your first service.

No. There is no long-term contract and no sign-up fee. Service continues until you tell us to stop.

You can cancel at any time — just email info@lawnandyardsolutions.com. We ask for about two weeks’ notice so we can take you off the route and offer the slot to someone else. Visits already scheduled inside that period are billed as scheduled.

If you are partway through a fertilization or weed control program when you stop, we settle up for the treatments already applied. Their cost is spread evenly across your visits rather than charged per treatment, so some of them — a pre-emergent, for example — are applied early and keep working long before they have been paid for. Each treatment applied is billed at its standalone price, less the share already collected through your visits. If what you have paid already covers them, there is nothing further to pay.

Just let us know at least 48 hours ahead so we can re-route the day and offer your slot to someone else. With less notice than that, the visit is billed as scheduled.

Grass keeps growing while a visit is skipped, so the next visit is billed for the interval that has actually passed rather than the one on your schedule. Skip a weekly visit and the next one is a two-week visit, billed at your bi-weekly rate. Nothing else changes and you go straight back to your usual schedule and price afterwards.

Skipping a bi-weekly visit leaves close to a month of growth, which is usually more than a standard visit covers. We will quote that visit before we come out so you can decide then.

Fertilization and weed control applications run on their own timing and are not affected by a skipped mowing visit — the treatments still happen.

The year’s cost for those programs is divided evenly across your visits, so a share of it is built into every visit price. Skipping a visit does not skip a treatment, so the year’s treatment cost does not change. The share for the missed visit appears on your next invoice — either inside the longer-interval price, or added to it.

No. As long as gates are unlocked and pets are secured, we can complete the service without you being home.

Yes, please. Any area with animal waste in it is skipped, and the visit is still billed as scheduled. We will tell you which areas were skipped and why.

It is partly a hygiene and safety matter for us, and partly for your lawn — mowing over waste spreads it across the whole yard.

The same goes for hoses, toys, sports equipment and furniture. Anything left on the lawn is mowed around rather than moved.

Yes. We provide service to all Tracy and Mountain House neighborhoods and follow HOA guidelines regarding curb appeal, weed levels, and maintenance expectations.

We use your yard waste container whenever possible to help keep costs low. Larger jobs, or situations where there is more debris than will fit in the bin, are hauled away and recycled when possible.

Licensing & Insurance

Yes, we are fully licensed, insured, and bonded. This means we meet all state and local requirements to operate safely and professionally, while also providing peace of mind to our customers. Licensing ensures we follow proper standards, insurance protects you and your property in the unlikely event of an accident, and bonding guarantees that we stand behind our work and commitments. Together, these safeguards show our dedication to delivering reliable, trustworthy lawn care services.

Yes, we are fully licensed to apply both weed control and pest management products. Our licensing ensures we meet all state and local requirements for handling, mixing, and spraying these materials safely and responsibly. This means applications are performed with the correct products and techniques to protect your lawn, your family, and the environment. You can trust that our team follows proper guidelines and best practices whenever weed or pest spraying is needed.

  1. Yes, a license is required. This industry is highly regulated by the EPA and State of California.  You need to make sure that the business spraying for weeds is licensed by the DPR (California Department of Pesticide Regulations). This helps to ensure your family and pet’s safety. Weeds are considered a “Pest” and if someone sprays a pesticide, herbicide, insecticide or plant hormones, both the business and the people applying the chemicals need to be licensed. Ask to see their Applicator’s License or Certificate License. 

    Here is a one page PDF that has great information from the DPR titled  “Is Your Maintenance Gardener Licensed?”

    You need to check if your maintenance gardener is licensed by DPR, if they use pesticides. That is the law. You can easily find maintenance gardener licensing information on DPR website here. 

Yes, your Gardener needs to have a Business license to perform any work within  Tracy. 

Lawn Care & Mowing

Weekly mowing is recommended for both Bermuda and Fescue lawns in our area. It helps keep the grass healthy, prevents scalping, reduces weeds, and ensures the lawn stays at the ideal height. Bi-weekly mowing is available but isn’t ideal during the fast-growing season (March–October).

The 1/3 rule means we never remove more than one-third of the leaf blade in a single mowing. This prevents stress, improves root depth, and keeps your lawn greener. Weekly mowing makes it possible to follow this rule consistently.

Yes. Your service continues year-round — what changes is how much mowing there is to do.

As growth slows in fall and winter we mow as the lawn needs it rather than cutting for the sake of it, and the rest of the visit carries on as usual: edging, blowing off the driveway and walkways, keeping leaves under control and keeping the weeds out of the cracks.

Grass type makes a difference. Bermuda goes dormant and turns brown through the cold months and needs very little. Fescue stays greener and keeps growing slowly, so it still wants an occasional light cut.

Your schedule stays as it is. We do not move you to a different plan for the winter and back again in spring, and your price stays the same year-round because the work does.

We offer both bagging and mulching of grass clippings, depending on what’s best for your lawn at the time of service. Mulching is often preferred because returning clippings to the soil provides natural nutrients and promotes healthier turf. However, there are situations where bagging is the better option—such as when the lawn is overgrown and more than one-third of the blade is being removed, or when weeds are present that could spread if clippings are left behind. The choice is typically determined by the frequency of mowing and the lawn’s condition, ensuring your yard looks its best and stays healthy.

Light rain usually changes nothing. We mow in drizzle, and a wet morning often dries out by the afternoon.

What moves a visit is heavy or prolonged rain. Extreme heat, high wind, equipment failure, or anything else that would make the work unsafe can move a visit the same way. That’s a call we make on the day of service.

When that happens, your visit goes to the next available day and we will let you know, so you can have the lawn ready for the new day — toys and hoses off the grass, and the gate unlocked.

Fertilization, Weed & Pest Control

Our fertilization program includes seasonal applications tailored to the grass type (Bermuda or Fescue) and local conditions. We apply premium fertilizers to promote strong color, thicker turf, and improved root growth. We also adjust treatments based on temperature and water restrictions.

Yes—our weed control covers both broadleaf weeds (like clover, dandelions, and oxalis) and grassy weeds (such as crabgrass or foxtail). We also treat weeds in bed areas and around the perimeter of the home. Treatments are adjusted based on the season and the severity of the weed issue.

Lawn weed control uses selective herbicides designed to kill weeds without harming grass. Bed weed control requires different products because beds often contain multiple plant types. We treat both areas safely and effectively year-round.

Yes, and it is included with every mowing package rather than priced separately.

Cracks and edges along driveways, walkways and patios are kept clear — treated or trimmed, whichever suits the spot and the season.

Most services leave those weeds behind, which is why a yard can still look half-finished right after it has been mowed.

Yes. We provide targeted treatments for pests such as grubs, armyworms, beetles, and other lawn-damaging insects. Early detection and treatment help prevent widespread lawn damage.

Signs include brown patches that lift up easily like carpet, increased bird activity pecking at the lawn, or rapid thinning of turf. If you’re unsure, we can diagnose the issue during a visit.

Every product that may be applied at your property is listed on our Products We May Use page, along with its active ingredient, its California registration number, and a link to the manufacturer’s own label.

That list is kept current as products change. If you ever want to know what was used on a particular visit, just ask.

Every product carries its own re-entry time on the label, and that is what we go by. For most of what gets used on a lawn it means staying off the treated area until it has dried.

We will tell you what applies on the day, and you can look up any product yourself on our Products We May Use page, where each label is linked.

If you would rather have a longer gap than the label calls for, say so and we will plan the visit around it.

Yes. If you would rather we did not use any spray on your property, tell us and we will work that way.

Weeds in driveway, walkway and patio cracks get trimmed instead of treated. Trimming takes off the top growth and usually leaves the roots, so those spots need attention again sooner — but it is your property and your call, and we are glad to do it either way.

Watering & Irrigation

Lawns must be watered before 9 a.m. and after 7 p.m.. The days that you are allowed to water are based on your house address. Houses ending in an even house number are allowed to water on Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday. Homes ending with odd addresses would be allowed to water their lawns Monday, Wednesday and Saturday.

Early morning, between about 4 AM and 8 AM. Watering then means less of it evaporates before it reaches the roots, and the grass has the rest of the day to dry.

Watering in the evening or overnight leaves the blades wet for hours in the dark, which is how lawn disease gets started. Midday watering is not harmful, but a good share of it evaporates before the lawn can use it.

How much water your lawn needs depends on the type of grass. Bermuda and other warm-season grasses need about 1 inch of water per week during the growing season. Fescue and other cool-season grasses need about 1.5 inches. That total includes rainfall, not just what your sprinklers put down.

Your soil condition and how much sun or shade an area gets will shift those numbers either way. The root systems of established lawns generally penetrate about 6 to 8 inches into the soil, and deep, infrequent watering is what promotes a vigorous root system. If under irrigated, cool-season grasses may become semi-dormant in the hottest part of the summer, returning to full vigor in cooler fall weather. Regular deep watering is necessary to keep the lawn green through the summer.

Run time depends on how much water your sprinklers actually put out, which varies a lot by sprinkler type. The target for the week is about 1 inch for Bermuda and other warm-season grasses, or about 1.5 inches for fescue and other cool-season grasses, rainfall included.

Measure your system’s output first, then divide the weekly target by that output to get your run time. For example, if your sprinklers put out 1/2 inch in 20 minutes and you have fescue, you need about 60 minutes spread across the week. We can measure your system’s output and recommend run times for your yard.

In order to know how much water you are using on your lawn, you will need to measure your watering systems output. The best way to do this is by using containers similar to a tuna can or cat food can.  Place several cans around on your lawn. (Using several will show if there are spots that are getting too much or too little water.) Run your sprinklers for a predetermined length of time (ie: 20 minutes).  Measure how much water was collected in each of the cans. Add the measured amounts together and then divide by the total of cans to come up with an average. Once you have an average you will know how much you are watering for that amount of time.  Example:  You use 4 cans and run the sprinkler for 20 minutes. When you measure you see that can 1 has 1/2 inch (.50), can 2 has 3/8 inch (.375), can 3 has 5/8 inch (.625), and can 4 has 1/2 inch (.50). Add these together (.50 + .375 +.625 + .50) and you get 2.  Take this number divide by 4 (number of cans used). The result is .50 or 1/2. This means that 20 minutes of watering, your sprinkle will put out 1/2 inch of water.  

Yes. If measurable rain occurs, you can reduce or skip watering for a few days depending on how much fell. Smart controllers also help automate this.

Yes. Cooler temperatures, shorter days and winter rain mean the lawn uses far less water. Many lawns here only need water every 10 to 14 days through the winter, and in a wet stretch they may not need any.

What to avoid is leaving the sprinklers on a summer schedule. Watering a cold, already damp lawn does nothing for it and can encourage disease. Check what rain has actually fallen before running the system.

Aeration, Overseeding & Topdressing

Yes. We offer core aeration for both Bermuda and Fescue lawns.

– Fescue: Best in fall or spring.
– Bermuda: Best late spring through summer.

Aeration helps reduce soil compaction, improves water absorption, and strengthens root growth.

Overseeding helps thicken thin or patchy Fescue lawns. It’s usually done in the fall when temperatures are ideal for germination. Bermuda lawns typically don’t need overseeding unless you want a winter green lawn—something optional, not required.

Topdressing involves adding a thin layer of compost or soil blend to improve soil quality, level uneven areas, and help new seed grow. It pairs well with aeration for the best results.

Shrubs, Trees & Seasonal Services

Yes. We provide trimming for shrubs, hedges, roses, and small trees. Routine trimming keeps plants healthy and shaped appropriately. We also offer seasonal pruning for roses and flowering plants.

Yes. We provide one-time or seasonal cleanups including leaf removal, bush trimming, weed removal, and general yard tidying.